Martin Stráník sends Adršpach’s hardest route
Some routes go first try, while others take a bit more time, patience and several trips back to the crag. The sandstone route "Problém" XIIb (≈ Fr. 9a) in Adršpach definitely belongs in the second category. From the very first attempts it was clear I had a real challenge ahead of me. A hard opening boulder, technical climbing and difficult moves higher up make this a properly complex route. In the end it turned out to be one of my hardest ascents on sandstone!
It was an old project from 2007, bolted back then by some of our best sandstone climbers: Tomajda (Tomáš Sobotka), Ondra Beneš, Majzlík (Luboš Mázl), Jirka Lautner and Tomáš Moravec. Since then, hardly anyone had tried it because it was simply too hard. Only in recent years did Honza Novák, Eliáš Stříbrný and I start taking a look at it.
Several attempts
My first goes on this route were two years ago, but back then I didn’t even figure out all the moves. Since then I’ve gone back to it every now and then. I managed to solve the second half, but I only roughed out the crux boulder at the second ring. This year I decided to give "Problém" more attention. In spring I figured out the opening boulder, and during summer I had two working attempts. Mostly I fine-tuned the second half of the route, because I knew that once I managed the boulder in autumn conditions, I’d fly through the rest.
When the weather got cooler, I did another working attempt with my brother and felt it might go this year.
First redpoint attempts and fight against fatigue
My first redpoint attempts ended in the boulder. On one trip I got through the boulder twice, but then both times I fell roughly halfway up. Once my foot slipped, but fatigue was clearly starting to play a big part. When you have to keep fighting through a hard start, you don’t have as much left for the rest of the climb as you need.
Even though I still haven't sent the route, I'm actually walking away from this attempt feeling pretty satisfied. I know the send is close, I've figured out all the individual moves, and I'm starting to believe that my next visit could be the one. The weather is still holding up, too, so there's no reason to wait long before trying again.
"Problém" done
I went back to Adršpach with a clear goal. This time I didn’t want to try anything or work anything out. I just wanted to finally send the route. On the very next trip, after warming up, I sent it first go. I got through the opening boulder without hesitating this time. I kept going up and gradually gained height. With every move I got closer to the top, and I got more and more excited that this time it might really happen. I climbed and climbed until I finally made it to the top! It was a process, but I enjoyed it. For me it’s a touch harder than "To Tu Ještě Nebylo" XIIb (≈ Fr. 9a) in Labák (Labské údolí, Czechia), which was the hardest sandstone route in Czechia until now, so I’d suggest XIIb (≈ Fr. 9a).
"Problém" is definitely one of those routes you don’t easily forget once you’ve sent it. Several visits, loads of attempts, gradually pushing my limits and, in the end, a successful ascent. That’s exactly the kind of project I love!
Martin Stráník
Note: The conversions from the local sandstone grading system to French grades are approximate. Sandstone climbing in Czechia has its own unique characteristics and can be demanding not only technically, but also mentally, particularly due to long runouts between protection points.
Martin Stráník, Problém XIIb
MoreFoto: Lukáš Černý
