František D’Agostino, Yosemite Valley - 3 hard bigwalls within 2 weeks

The duo of Czech climber František D’Agostino and American climber Samuel Stroh had an outstanding spring in Yosemite Valley. Over the course of just two weeks, they free climbed three demanding big walls, two of them in under 24 hours. Read how the two pulled off these impressive ascents in true light-and-fast style.

Their main goal was to freeclimb El Niño (800m, 27 pitches, 5.13c/8a+) in a day, which they successfully accomplished on May 4th in the morning climbing after climbing through the night. Previously they had spent 6 climbing days rehearsing all the pitches including one day when they rappelled from the top. The final push took them 18h 21min and they both freeclimbed all the pitches, both leading the crux pitch (5.13c or 8a+) and switching leads on the other pitches.

„It was our first real try squeezed in between the rainy weather. We didn’t really expect to send it, but after an anxious beginning where Sam took two falls on the 1st pitch, we found our flow and didn’t have any major problems (I just took two falls on easier pitches). It was a warm and beautiful night with the full moon shining on our way. We just had a lovely time climbing together, listening to music, enjoying snacks and eventually sending in a glorious sunrise!”, reflects František.

Four days later, the boys got right back on the Big Stone in pursuit of climbing the wall via Golden Gate (900m, 34 pitches, 5.13a/7c+) in a day. Samuel had already climbed Golden Gate ground up style with Adrian Vanoni in 2022, while František had only climbed Freerider in 2022 so from the “Alcove” ledge (half of the wall) upwards it was untouched terrain for him.

„We were also the first party on a route this spring, so it was a true ground up climbing experience for me, which made it a great adventure!”, comments František.

Climbing through the night and morning they finally arrived at the “Tower of People” ledge at around 1 p.m., with two 5.13/7c+ pitches behind them and two still ahead of them. Already tired, in full sun and behind schedule the pressure was on. “Golden Dessert” (pitch 28; 5.13/7c+) went well with František flashing it (with preplaced gear) and Sam following clean on his 2nd try. But then came the notorious, short and pumpy “A5 Traverse” (pitch 29; 5.13/7c+). František continues:

„We were throwing try after try hoping to make it in time, but we kept falling off the crux being just very tired and super pumped. On my 4th try I fell past the crux and thought maybe it’s really over, but right after that Sam miraculously sent the pitch, finding his calm rhythm! I was so inspired, and I knew I had one last try, so I gave it my absolute all and found myself at the anchor, not falling! It was just incredible; we really couldn’t believe it!”

After climbing a very strenuous last few pitches to the top, Sam and František, together with photographer Daniel Teitelbaum, stood on top of El Capitan once again, full 26 hours after they set off the ground. It was just after sunset on May 9th.

„Climbing 5.11s had never felt harder than it did on those last pitches of Golden Gate, my biceps were cramping so hard, hands were sweating with no chalk left and I really felt like I reached my limits. Although we didn’t fully accomplish the goal, I don’t really mind. I am glad we freeclimbed the route and simply had the biggest day of climbing in our lives! What a crazy experience!”

They rested the bodies and minds for 4 days before they decided to try one more big wall. This time, a legendary route from Mikey Schaefer, „Father Time“ (650m; 20 pitches; 5.13b/8a) leading up the Middle Cathedral rock. Since it’s shaded most of the day Sam and František started early in the morning and finished at the dark 14h47min later having both freeclimbed the route once again. For František this was a ground up effort, here is his take:

„We approached Father Time in somewhat relaxed fashion, having no pressure to send. Our main goals were having a good climb and good time together. The route delivered some of the best granite climbing I’ve done, really exceptional quality of rock and movement! I felt reasonably tired from El Cap and honestly had to dig deeper than I would have wanted to, but the route was definitely worth it! It is far from easy, especially the last crux pitch called “Index 11d”. Glad we did it, it was a great way to say goodbye to the valley,“ František finished his story from the Yosemite Valley.

Franta, what a fantastic achievement!
We look forward to more stories from your next climbing expeditions.

Photo: Daniel Teitelbaum