Šimon Potůček, Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+

The Slovenian crag Mišja Peč is one of the places that significantly shaped the history of sport climbing, and the route Za staro kolo in majhnega psa is among its most legendary lines. Since the first ascent by Tadej Slabe in 1992, it has maintained a reputation as an exceptionally demanding and uncompromising route that tests not only physical fitness, but also the climber’s mental strength and technical precision. In more than thirty years, only a very small number of ascents have been recorded.

At the end of 2025, this historic 8c+ saw its second Czech ascent, completed by Singing Rock climber Šimon Potůček. In the following report, Šimon describes in detail the process of working the route, returning to an unfinished project, and the final ascent in less than ideal conditions.
We congratulate Šimon and look forward to his next achievements in 2026.

Šimon’s report:
The route Za staro kolo in majhnega psa is located in the Slovenian area of Mišja Peč. It has quite a significant historical importance. Alongside routes such as Hubble or Action Directe, it was at the time one of the hardest routes in the world. It received its first ascent in 1992, carried out by Tadej Slabe (which I consider an incredible achievement for that time).

For its grade of 8c+, the route is relatively strict. That is why even after more than 30 years it has seen only around 11 ascents. In terms of character, it is a very intense power-endurance climb with poor footholds, an uncomfortable rest, followed by a physical sequence on a series of underclings. At the same time, the route is very demanding in terms of technique and precise execution.

The choice was actually quite “straightforward” – I didn’t have anything worked on in Osp, I wanted a proper challenge, and this one attracted me quite a lot. Right from the start I was surprised by the difficulty of the opening section. I thought it wouldn’t be a problem, but I was very wrong. However, the main boulder of the route suited me better than I expected, and I also managed the crux cross move to a small hold relatively quickly. I was improving on the route, and by the end of the late autumn visit I had the ascent almost done. Due to fatigue and lack of time it didn’t work out, so I decided to go there one more time this year and finish the project.

Despite the fact that I didn’t spend a huge amount of time on the route overall, working it was psychologically demanding for me. The falls were practically always in the same place, and it was difficult to maintain a positive mindset. In the end, the key to the ascent was climbing the entire opening section precisely and without mistakes, not wasting unnecessary energy while clipping, and then just hoping for an attempt in which I would hit the small right-hand hold correctly.

I finally managed to link the whole route on 18 December 2025. It was foggy, relatively cold and humid. These were certainly not ideal conditions for an ascent, and I really had to fight hard. In the end, everything worked out, and I was able to add the second Czech ascent and the 12th ascent overall to the route’s history.

Even though this is not the hardest grade I have climbed, I would say that due to its difficulty, significance and character, this route is probably the most valuable one I have managed so far. After the ascent I took a lighter day. But now I’m already projecting something else again :).

Šimon Potůček, Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+