Dušan Janák
Name: Dušan Janák
Nickname: Stoupa
Born: 22. 1. 1979
Zodiac sign: Aquarius
Favourite colour: Jolly colours of rainbow and autumn
Favourite animal: Mikeš the Tomcat
Discipline Alpinismus
Climbing since: 1995
Introduced to climbing by: A nursing doctor after a fall in the High Tatras
Country: Czech Republic
Other interests?
Life, Universe and everything (rather theoretically).
Favourite climbing area?
The Moravian Karst
Motto?
What may not be talked about must be concealed.
Favourite food?
Brown betty as I do not have it too often.
Favourite food to take to rock towns?
Various kinds of straws and ice scream.
Stretching (yes/no)?
Yes.
Climbing or other idol?
Not stated.
Competitions (best places)?
2006
12th place in IWC in Tanvald,CZ; 3rd place in Czech Championship in Ice Climbing
2005
1st place in Czech Championship in Ice Climbing
The most valued climbs?
2014
Miss Italia ´61, 9+/10-, Dolomites, Italy, with Lukáš Abt.
King Overhang, M14, Tatras, Slovakia, with Honza Straka.
Pohádkové sny, 11-, Moravian Kars, Czech Republic, Stoupa´s first eleven route.
2011 - 2013
Data will be completed - Stoupa’s profile is under construction...
2010
Vol de Nuit, M8-, OS, Chamonix, France, alpine cult mixed climbing with Pavel "Bača" Vrtík.
2009
Hazard, A5, Vysoké Tatry, Slovensko, the first repetition of A5 in The High Tatra.
Erecttissima, 8a (9+/10-), Dolomity, Italy, Erecttissima – first ascent at Tre Cime.
2008
Metal Masters, A3+, Severní s. Trollů, Norway, Metal masters in Troll wall (tech route) with Vašekem Šatavou, var. c. Baltika.
Matrix, M8/M9, PP, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakai. with Pavlem Vrtíkem, The hardest mix route in Slovakia.
2007
Jet Stream, 10-/10, PP, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakai, výstup roku 2007.
Voie Petit, 8b, RP, Chamonix, France, climb of year 2007 with Vašekem Šatavou.
2006
Matador, M11, PP, Kandersteg, Švýcarsko,mix.
Tooltime, M10+, PP, kandersteg, Switzerland, mix.
Marjetica, 8b/b+, PP, Osp, Switzerland, sport climbing.
Rima libre, 8a, Flash, El Chorro, Switzerland, sport climbing.
Fram-End of Mystery, 10- E4 650 m, PP, Marmolada, Italy, Fram-End of Mystery 10- E4 650 m PP Marmolada Italy By climbing the last year’s first ascend up to the top , the 1st Czech ten-minus in the Alps was made, 19 lengths’ long; partner V. Šatava.
Separate Reality, 5.12a, PP, Yosemity, California, Cult sport climbing in Yosemite.
Free Rider, 5.12d (7c+) E3 1000 m, PP, Yosemity, California - 38 lengths’ long free route in south-west face of El Capitan; partner J. Šrůtek.
2005
Rodeo, WI 7/A2 (nyní WI7/M8) 300 m, AF, Gastein, Austria - The 1st repeating and the 1st free climb of Jasper’s Ice Route; partner J. Doudlebský.
Freya, 9/A3+ E5, 800 m, AF, Lofoty, Norway - The 1st repeating of Jasper’s Route, partner J. Kreisinger.
Jet Stream, 9+AF E5 150 m, AF, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakai, 1st free climb of the cult “aid climbing” route (A3+).
Fram-End of Mystery, 9+ AF E4 650 m, AF, Marmolada, Italy, he first ascend ; partners V.Šatava, P. Jonák.
2004
Jean Couzy in Memoriam, 8a+ E2 600m, RP, Tre Cime, Italy, 2nd repeating; partner J.Doudlebský.
Robinson Crusoe, 8+/9- E4 270 m, PP, Tre Cime, Italy, The first ascend; partner J. Doudlebský.
Camilotto Pellessier, 8a E1 450 m, RP, Tre Cime, Italy, partner S. Hovanec.
2003
Akut, 8a E2 500 m, RP, Tre Cime, Italy, partner S. Hovanec.
2002
Križok, VIb (ruské stupnice) = 8+ /A4- E4 1200 m, Pik 4810, Kyrgyzstan, rough big wall for 10 days in the wall, partner J.Doudlebský.
Ruská ruleta, M6 E2 250 m, RP, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakia, 1. RP přelez; partner Bača.
Matrix, M6+ A2 E4 250 m, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakia, 1st RP climb; partner Bača.
Americké hrátky, A4, Moravský kras, CZ, partner Bača.
2001
Tutáč prváč, 9 E3 170 m, RP, Rax Alpe, Austria, prvovýstup a 1. RP, s více spolulezci.
Diretissima Minuzzo, 9 E1, PP, Dolomiti - Torre Venezia, Italy, 1. RP přelez; partner M. Drašar.
Out of Gym, 9- A3 500 m, Bergel, Italy, prvovýstup; partners Bača, V. Dvořák, R. Jurečka.
My harness?
For rocks VERICT, for big walls ZEAL.
My rope?
For rocks Glory, for mauntains Acordy, do big wall.
Plans for 2009?
Top secret, něco ukrutně těžkého.
Plans for future?
Stejné jako na rok 2008.
Future of climbing - vision?
It is known that the future of climbing lies in grips to hold; besides, disciplines will differentiate in a larger scale, masses will participate and after introducing among Olympic sports a subsequent decline.
Climbs?
Marmolada, FRAM, 9+ AF (RP about 8a/b?)
AF classification of individual lengths: 7 lengths to 5+ together with “Route across a Fish”, then 8-, 7-, 6, 7+, 8+ (RP 8+/9-), 9 (RP 9), 8-, 8 (RP 8+), 9+ (RP 10-?), 9 (RP 9/9+), 9+ (RP 9+/10-?), 5+. (E4)
Lofoty, Freya, 9/A3+ E5
Torre Preus, "Spechio di Monica", (first ascend), 8- E3, OS
With stoppers only. (A few notes to the scale „E“. It is a scale designed by R. Jasper and basically intended to tell you what you risk at the route and how physically strenuous it is. This scale is closed being a sum of three aspects: belay quality, danger of injury and psychical demandingness. E1 stands for a low danger and a piece of cake, E6 then a mortal danger and fear)
Cima Grande, "Camillotto Pellesier" 8b, RP
Cima Grande, "Alp Rose" 8+/9- E3, OS
Cima Grande, "Via Robinson Crusoe", (first ascend) 8+/9- E3/E4
Cima Ovest, "In Memorian Jean Couzy", 8b, RP
The 1st RP of Couzy's Route was climbed by Bubu in 99, 2nd RP by a local specialist "Much" Meier and 3rd RP by Stoupa perhaps. Considering the large number of traverses in the route, the guys laid fair 19 lengths. The route runs through the wet, cold and shattered north face, with a bulk of hard lengths (the most difficult one is 12) with rotten pitons, so we may say it is a real hard route. The Slovenians torn up some pitons in the hardest length so, moreover, it is a bit of moral thing. The Czech team was not left behind and pulled out a few pitons by hand for their display-cases.
Dušan Stoupa Janák
More
Articles, videos and links about Dušan
- Portraits / interviews may be found at www.climbandmore.com, www.rockstars.cz, www.rockpoint.cz
- In magazines Montana 2005 to 2008 and Gory 2006.