Dušan "Stoupa" Janák, Czech Republic

profile under construction... thanks for the understanding...

10908022. 1. 1979

Zodiac sign: Aquarius
Favourite colour: Jolly colours of rainbow and autumn
Favourite animal: Mikeš the Tomcat
Discipline Alpinismus
Climbing since: 1995
Introduced to climbing by: A nursing doctor after a fall in the High Tatras

Other interests:
Life, Universe and everything (rather theoretically)
Favourite climbing area: The Moravian Karst
Motto: What may not be talked about must be concealed.
Favourite food:Brown betty as I do not have it too often
Favourite food to take to rock townsVarious kinds of straws and ice scream
Stretching (yes/no): YES
Climbing or other idol: Not stated

Competitions (best places)
2006 - 12th place in IWC in Tanvald,CZ; 3rd place in Czech Championship in Ice Climbing
2005 - 1st place in Czech Championship in Ice Climbing

The most valued climbs Hardness Style Area Country Note
2014
Miss Italia ´61
9+/10-

Dolomites
Italy
with Lukáš Abt
2014
King Overhang
M14

Tatras
Slovakia

with Honza Straka

2014
Phádkové sny
11-

Moravian Kars
Czech Republic
Stoupa´s first eleven route

2011 - 2013                        data will be completed - Stoupa’s profile is under construction...

2010 Vol de Nuit M8- OS Chamonix France alpine cult mixed climbing
with Pavel "Bača" Vrtík
2009 Hazard A5
Vysoké Tatry Slovensko the first repetition of A5 in The High Tatra
2009 ERECTTISSIMA 8a (9+/10-)? .. Dolomity Italy  Erecttissima – first ascent at Tre Cime
2008 METAL MASTERS A3+ .. Severní s. Trollů Norway Metal masters in Troll wall (tech route)
with Vašekem Šatavou, var. c. BALTIKA
2008 MATRIX M8/M9 PP Vysoké Tatry Slovakai with Pavlem Vrtíkem, The hardest mix route in Slovakia
2007 Jet Stream 10-/10 PP Vysoké Tatry Slovakai výstup roku 2007
2007 Voie Petit 8b RP Chamonix France climb of year 2007 with Vašekem Šatavou
2006 Matador M11 PP Kandersteg Švýcarsko mix
2006 Tooltime M10+ PP kandersteg Switzerland mix
2006 Marjetica 8b/b+ PP Osp Switzerland sport climbing
2006 Rima libre 8a Flash El Chorro Switzerland sport climbing
2006 Fram-End of Mystery 10- E4 650 m PP Marmolada Italy Fram-End of Mystery 10- E4 650 m PP Marmolada Italy By climbing the last year’s first ascend up to the top , the 1st Czech ten-minus in the Alps was made, 19 lengths’ long; partner V. Šatava
2006 Separate Reality 5.12a PP Yosemity California Cult sport climbing in Yosemite
2006 Free Rider 5.12d (7c+) E3 1000 m PP Yosemity California

38 lengths’ long free route in south-west face of El Capitan; partner J. Šrůtek

2005 Rodeo WI 7/A2 (nyní WI7/M8) 300 m AF Gastein Austria  The 1st repeating and the 1st free climb of Jasper’s Ice Route; partner J. Doudlebský
2005 Freya 9/A3+ E5, 800 m AF Lofoty Norway The 1st repeating  of Jasper’s Route, partner J. Kreisinger
2005 Jet Stream 9+AF E5 150 m AF Vysoké Tatry Slovakai 1st free climb of the cult “aid climbing” route (A3+)
2005 Fram-End of Mystery 9+ AF E4 650 m AF Marmolada Italy he first ascend ; partners V.Šatava, P. Jonák

2004

Jean Couzy in Memoriam 8a+ E2 600m RP Tre Cime Italy 2nd repeating; partner J.Doudlebský
2004 Robinson Crusoe 8+/9- E4 270 m PP Tre Cime Italy The first ascend; partner J. Doudlebský
2004 Camilotto Pellessier 8a E1 450 m RP Tre Cime Italy partner S. Hovanec
2003 Akut 8a E2 500 m RP Tre Cime Italy partner S. Hovanec
2002 Križok VIb (ruské stupnice) = 8+ /A4- E4 1200 m - Pik 4810 Kyrgyzstan rough big wall for 10 days in the wall; partner J.Doudlebský
2002 Ruská ruleta M6 E2 250 m RP Vysoké Tatry
Slovakia
1. RP přelez; partner Bača
2002 Matrix M6+ A2 E4 250 m - Vysoké Tatry Slovakia 1st RP climb; partner Bača
2002 Americké hrátky A4 - Moravský kras CZ partner Bača
2001 Tutáč prváč 9 E3 170 m RP Rax Alpe Austria prvovýstup a 1. RP; s více spolulezci
2001 Diretissima Minuzzo 9 E1 PP Dolomiti - Torre Venezia Italy 1. RP přelez; partner M. Drašar
2001 Out of Gym 9- A3 500 m - Bergel Italy prvovýstup; partners Bača, V. Dvořák, R. Jurečka

My harness:for rocks VERICT, for big walls ZEAL
My rope: for rocks Glory, for mauntains Acordy, do big wall
Plans for 2009: top secret, něco ukrutně těžkého
Plans for future: stejné jako na rok 2008
Future of climbing - vision It is known that the future of climbing lies in grips to hold; besides, disciplines will differentiate in a larger scale, masses will participate and after introducing among Olympic sports a subsequent decline
Own pages or presentation Portraits / interviews may be found at www.climbandmore.com, www.rockstars.cz, www.rockpoint.cz, in magazines Montana 2005 to 2008 and Gory 2006

Climbs

  • Marmolada, FRAM, 9+ AF (RP about 8a/b?)
    AF classification of individual lengths: 7 lengths to 5+ together with “Route across a Fish”, then 8-, 7-, 6, 7+, 8+ (RP 8+/9-), 9 (RP 9), 8-, 8 (RP 8+), 9+ (RP 10-?), 9 (RP 9/9+), 9+ (RP 9+/10-?), 5+. (E4)
  • Lofoty, Freya, 9/A3+ E5
  • Torre Preus, "Spechio di Monica", (first ascend), 8- E3, OS
    With stoppers only. (A few notes to the scale „E“. It is a scale designed by R. Jasper and basically intended to tell you what you risk at the route and how physically strenuous it is. This scale is closed being a sum of three aspects: belay quality, danger of injury and psychical demandingness. E1 stands for a low danger and a piece of cake, E6 then a mortal danger and fear)
  • Cima Grande, "Camillotto Pellesier" 8b, RP
  • Cima Grande, "Alp Rose" 8+/9- E3, OS
  • Cima Grande, "Via Robinson Crusoe", (first ascend) 8+/9- E3/E4
  • Cima Ovest, "In Memorian Jean Couzy", 8b, RP
    The 1st RP of Couzy's Route was climbed by Bubu in 99, 2nd RP by a local specialist "Much" Meier and 3rd RP by Stoupa perhaps. Considering the large number of traverses in the route, the guys laid fair 19 lengths. The route runs through the wet, cold and shattered north face, with a bulk of hard lengths (the most difficult one is 12) with rotten pitons, so we may say it is a real hard route. The Slovenians torn up some pitons in the hardest length so, moreover, it is a bit of moral thing. The Czech team was not left behind and pulled out a few pitons by hand for their display-cases.

FRAM - End of mystery